Puzheheei

Jiang Zilong

People are used to looking down at the water. It is unimaginable to stand on the edge of the Bohai Sea and look up into the air. There is a huge ocean of water hanging in the air more than 2,000 meters high. In fact, looking at Puzhehei from Tianjin, Puzhehehei is exactly at a height of more than 2,000 meters southwest of Tianjin.

Puzhehei-Yi dialect: "a place with fish and shrimp".

It is a plateau lake like jade in southeast Yunnan, belonging to Qiubei County. Our car got lost in the city of Qiubei County and asked several local people about it. At this time, a young man walking in a hurry with a stack of materials under his armpit led us out of the county seat. When we got off the bus to express our thanks, we found out that he was the deputy magistrate of Qiubei County.

-- This is our first impression of Puzhehei.

Yunnan is the big brother of the Yunnan-Guizhou Plateau, and the mountainous plateau accounts for 94% of the total area of the province. It is conceivable that the more you drill in the mountains of Yunnan by car, the bigger the mountain. Looking up is scenery, looking down is danger, "one cannot be poor for a thousand miles, and twists and turns with the mountains". Airplanes make the world smaller, and cars make Yunnan bigger. When you are bumped by a car and your back is sore, your hips are stiff, your face is gray and your lips are dry, and you suddenly fall into a cool blue water, what kind of enjoyment will it be?-I felt like this when I saw Puzhehei.

I couldn't bear to dirty the lake water when I wanted to wash my face with water, so I sat by the lake and watched the water wash dust. The sky is approaching dusk, and the lake is full of light and smoke. In the smoke wave, a green peak protrudes, the mountain is in the water, the water is in the mountain, the water surrounds the mountain, and the mountain leads the water around. The mountains are deep green, the water is clear green, the shadow is shaken, the imaginary is uncertain, and it is intoxicating and obsessed. The wind and dust all the way, the bumpy day, see puzhehei is worth it. I am no longer hot, from the inside to the outside all feel calm and cool.

La fête du feu de joie après le dîner a également eu lieu près du lac. Les jeunes hommes et femmes de Zhuang, Yi, Miao, Yao et d'autres groupes ethniques chantaient, dansaient, riaient ou se moquaient, et parfois attiraient les touristes à participer. Mes compagnons et moi avons été traînés dans la salle pour nous ridiculiser. Peu importe les jeunes ou les vieux, peu importe la nationalité, tout le monde est affecté par l'atmosphère. Ils deviennent fous et chantent, rient et font beaucoup de bruit. Ils ne savent pas ce que la nuit est et qui je suis... Il est rare que les gens de la ville passent un si bon moment, ou les jeunes hommes et femmes de ces minorités ethniques sont enviables. Par rapport à leur vie simple et heureuse, au moins ils ont souvent la possibilité d'être heureux et désintéressés-c'est ce que j'ai ressenti à ce moment-là, peut-être qu'ils ont aussi leurs propres problèmes, Mais remerciez-les d'amener dans le bonheur de l'altruisme ceux qui ne se sont jamais rencontrés mais qui ont toutes sortes d'attentes de tous les coins du monde. Même si c'est court. N'est-ce pas ce genre de grand bonheur et de grande émotion que nous recherchons à la fin?

Hot, hot, in the black shore of the huge darkness, burning out a red pillar of indomitable light. My heart seems to have such a bright pillar of light. When they also insisted that I sing, I hummed a few words of "Flowers and Boys", and I somehow remembered the lyrics I liked decades ago: "The peony is the king of flowers, the most beautiful among people. Several teenagers......"

There is no need to buy a ticket to attend the bonfire party in Puzhehei. It is free to come and go, with a kind of primitive sincerity, simplicity and wild interest-so this happiness has no price, is real and deep, and can never be forgotten.

Now there are not many places where free can give you great happiness. Some bonfire parties are mainly based on eating, called "seafood barbecue", which attracts you to spend more with fire, that is, the so-called "eating and drinking are not afraid of expedition difficulties". The bonfire parties in folk villages all over the country can only be watched by buying tickets, and the ticket prices are not cheap. It is "watching the fire from the other side" to watch the performance as an audience, which is not the same as the fun you can enjoy by such a bonfire.

Le lendemain matin, selon l'horaire, nous nous baignerons dans le lac. Je rêvais d'un voyage au lac de Puzhehei, mais je craignais de prendre un paquebot de pétrole-chevauchant ce monstre grondant, non pas comme un lac, mais plutôt comme un envahisseur et un saboteur sur l'eau. Parce que je ne peux pas oublier la scène que j'ai vue dans le lac Qiandao: après le grand navire à passagers, il y a de gros morceaux d'étoiles et de bidons d'huile, des sacs en plastique, des chutes de papier, des boîtes vides et d'autres déchets et saletés flottant sur l'eau bleue. Le paysage du lac Yansai dans le Hebei n'est pas moins que celui du lac Qiandao dans la province du Zhejiang. Après plusieurs années d'ouverture, il a été pollué au-delà de la reconnaissance, nous avons donc dû fermer la porte dans le lac... Mais je ne sais pas combien d'années il faudra pour que le lac Yansai devienne son aspect d'origine, et il pourrait ne jamais retrouver sa clarté et sa propreté d'origine... Le paysage de la baie d'Halong au Vietnam n'est pas beau, avec la réputation de "Forêt de pierre sur la mer, juste parce que nous sommes un tour de passagers, et il y a toujours de petits navires marchands vendant des produits aquatiques et des crustacés des deux côtés, les cris sont sans fin, Ce qui me fait sentir que je ne peux pas m'intégrer dans le paysage de la baie d'Halong.

Thankfully, there are no motor boats on Puzhehei Lake, only small willow-shaped wooden boats lined up. Five people can sit on each boat, with tourists paddling their own oars and the owner at the helm. The owners of the boat I chose were two young men of the Yi nationality. After boarding the boat, they were still brothers. My brother A Liang was sitting in the bow with an oar and my brother A Mu was at the helm in the stern. This provided double insurance for our water boat.

The heavens are also fulfilled. Light clouds and mist cover the sun, like yin but not yin, light mist and empty, which does not affect the vision and avoids a sun exposure. Dozens of small boats fluttered like a scattered arrow shot into the depths of Puzhehei one after another. Tourists shouted and clapped their oars to hit the water. People were amused and shocked flocks of waterfowl. Gradually, everyone was fascinated by the scenery on the lake. Their eyes could not see it, and their mouths could not speak. The water began to calm down, and the distance between the boats was also opened. They were really scattered like leaves in the lake, and the stars were drowned in the waves and clouds. I saw the peak pitch, Pinghu a mirror. The water light overlaps the mountain shadow, the lake looks at the mountain more secluded, the reflection is psychedelic green haze, the mountain hides the lake sink cuibi.

The magic of creation is inexplicable-you said that the characteristic of plateau lakes is to immerse thousands of mountains in water, right? But boating in Puzhehei has no feeling of being on the plateau, with farmers driving alone to dig pig grass in the lake, and women washing vegetables and cutting fish by the lake, which is a distinct pastoral scene. In particular, the patches of wild giant lotus that looked out at the sky covered the water, and the lotus produced smoke. I asked A Liang to row the boat into the lotus array. The boat pushed the waves and the lingxiang floated. I believe that I have seen the scenery that poets born 500 years ago can only see: "When the boat enters the trouble, there is no face, and the red lotus is intoxicated with the white lotus."

Puzhehei is a piece of living water. I checked the map and found that it is part of the Nanpan River system. The Nanpan River finally flows into the Pearl River and can float downstream from Puhei to Guangzhou and Zhuhai. There are more than 60 lakes in Puzhehei, 286 flooded Qingfeng and 240 karst caves on the island. It can be said that the beautiful scenery of the world, such as mountains, water, forests, caves and countryside, is in his arms. In such a real and picturesque realm, I think there are still some shortcomings, or what should be done to live up to this landscape. What is missing or what should be, I can't think clearly at the moment......

At this time, singing came from the boat in the distance. As soon as the singing stopped in the distance, our boatman said, "I am the stove, you are the pot, you are the rabbit, I want to drive uphill..." The lyrics were later translated to me by him in Mandarin. He sang in Yi language, which I could not understand, but felt physically and mentally relaxed. His singing is extremely high-pitched, tactful, and full of appeal and penetrating power. Not only the people on our ship, but I believe the whole Puzhehei was felt, and the boats in all directions began to move closer to us.

I deeply feel that I am lucky to be on the right boat and on the right person. It is absolutely difficult to hear such a good song in the city. It is natural, innocent, eloquent and changeable. I said to myself: complete, too complete. Beautiful scenery, beautiful voice, beautiful feeling, beautiful people.

As soon as A Liang started singing, no one answered on the lake, so he sang one song after another. Sometimes the younger brother sitting in the stern takes over from him to sing a few songs. Although he sings well, he is far worse than his brother......

Taking advantage of the boat leaning against an island to see the deep hole, I bought mineral water for their brothers to moisten their throats. He also learned that A Liang was almost the "king of songs" of Puzhehei. When he proposed, he sang with his wife on the mountain for three days and three nights. According to the customs of the Yi nationality, you can't sing again after you get married. Today, we, admirers from afar, are in the heart of the lake. It probably won't cause misunderstanding among the unmarried girls, so we dare to let go of the singing voice and sing quickly. I used the word "worship" after consideration. At that time, my feelings for A Liang were probably the same as those of "fans" when they saw the singers they worshipped. At present, there is no singer who can arouse my like for Aryan.

We didn't finish our tour of the lake until noon. I know that A Liang and his team have to queue for several days to take a chance to tour the lake, and they can only earn more than ten yuan each time. When I said goodbye, I gave them a tip, but they refused with a red face. This made me ashamed. I was afraid that my vulgarity would desecrate the scenery of Puzhehei and the singing and good will of the two brothers.

In other tourist scenic spots, people will chase tourists and ask, do you want to listen to a song? Do you want to take a picture? How much does it cost to sing a song and how much does it cost to take a picture with you. Most of the songs you 've heard before. Last year, I drifted in a river in Zhangjiajie. The price was already agreed and the deposit was paid. But when I drifted to the best place, the owner of the rubber raft asked for more money and let us climb to the river bank and walk without more money......

There are many good scenes, and it is difficult to match good scenes with good people.

Fortunately, some of the people in the same trade did not put the money into the hands of the two brothers. They boarded the boat and paddled off the shore of the lake. I stood on the shore and gave birth to a feeling of yiyi. I watched them for a long time and refused to turn around. A Liang, who was far away, also waved his hand. Suddenly he spoke again and sang a song that I had recorded on the ship:

The water on the mountain trickled down

The clouds below the mountain rise

Castle Peak Not Pour Water Not Dry

Puzhei will think of his friends......